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“The village of Ipoh leaped into sudden notoriety, owing to rich finds of tin in the adjacent country, and a town sprang up of mushroom growth only to be burnt down and rebuilt, but this time with bricks and mortar, as befitted so wealthy and rising a place”
- Ambrose B. Rathborne, Camping and Tramping in Malaya, 1898.
Modern day Ipoh
Often touted as a town that “tin built”, its British colonial past has left Ipoh with a wide array of historical sites and buildings that speak volume of its heydays in 19th century when tin prices were at peak.
The town center can be easily covered in a day on foot. To give you an idea, one can walk from Fairpark Hotel to Sri Subramaniar Temple in 30-40mins. Google Map below is in true scale. Click on “view larger map” for more detailed map.
Tramping Ipoh in 1 day
Basically, Ipoh is divided into two by Kinta River, separating the old town (left) and new town (right). If you don’t have much time, we suggest you head straight to old town and soak up Ipoh’s best local scenes and bygone accolades.
View Larger Map
Insider Tip Map – Here, we have created a map – to our liking – that points travellers to the best spots in Ipoh. Click on blue balloons for details and soak up interesting places to visit around Ipoh
This map is for those who detest the mumble jumble of Google Map
Start and end the trail at either Bus Station or Railway Station. These places are well known by taxi drivers and easy to reach with town buses; makes it easy for you to find transport to get back to your hotel. And oh, you don’t need to worry about food and water because trail recommended is dotted by prolific eateries. However, an umbrella or raincoat will come in handy, just in case.
Here we go …..
1. Railway Station
Designed by British architect A. B. Hubback, the station was completed in 1917 and was a monument to Ipoh’s prosperity and wealth in its infancy years. After you’ve gawked at Railway Station’s fabulous Moorish Indian architecture design, cross over to the small park fronting it.
Pay attention to a fenced tree labelled “Pokok Ipoh / Upeh / Upas”.
Ipoh tree (Antiaris toxicaria Lesch)
If you don’t have time to trek the jungle to see a wild Ipoh tree, this is your best bet. The tree was planted umpteen years ago and has not grown much due to un-natural surroundings. Wild Ipoh trees can grow up to 40m (160 feet) in a few short years.
2. Birch Memorial Clock Tower
The clock tower was unveiled by Sir John Anderson, British High Commissioner in 1909, and it was dedicated to J.W.W. Birch, the first Resident of Perak state.
The tower hosts a 6ft diameter 10 cwt mother bell chiming to the tune of the Big Ben of London (!). Perched on pedestral are 4 terracotta figures depicting the 4 “Virtues of British Administration” …
1. Figure carrying a sword and shield depicts “loyalty”.
2. Figure blinded and holding a sword and scale depicts “justice”.
3. Figure unarmed depicts “patience”.
4. And figure with calm demeanour holding a spear depicts “fortitude”.
On the side panels are images of 44 famous persons in world history.
3 and 4. City Hall and High Court
These buildings are fine examples of bygone 19th century buildings.
5. Ipoh Club
The club was a leftover from colonial heydays and today it serves high-society and lawyers looking for a comfy sojourn from nearby High Court grind. The club is perched on the corner of a very large field locals call “Ipoh Padang”. This is the typical hallmark of British legacy. If one has travelled ex-colonial towns like Penang, Taiping or Kuala Lumpur, one would notice the presence of similar set-up in these town centers. There’s always a club for shoulder rubbings and a large field for cricket, polo, rugby and other English outdoor games. There are 3 star rooms for rent if you wish to soak in its 112 years old demeanour. View Ipoh Club’s website.
Ipoh Club
Colonial shophouses bordering Ipoh Padang are known as “Street of Lawyers” in olden days.
6. Tun Razak Library
By now, we are pretty sure our tropical weather is taking toll on you and what better place to cool down than the air-conditioned library. The library has a large collection of local Malay and English books. Depending on your interest(s), the library has enough riveting books to keep you hooked the whole day … if you’re not careful.
7. St Micheal Institution
After a moment of reading solitude at Tun Razak, hop over to the most beautiful Catholic missionary school in Malaysia. Founded by the De La Salle Brothers Order in 1912, it is part of the La Sallian community of schools worldwide, a brotherhood established by St. John Baptist De La Salle. With 37 students, it started off as a small mansion surrounded by coconut palms 100 years ago. By 1917, the enrollment reached 300 students. During World War 2, the school became a British army transit hospital camp but soon St. Michael became the headquarters of the Japanese government of Perak and became known as “Perak Shu Seicho”. After the war, the school reopened and more classes and buildings were added. Today, the school houses more than 2000 students making among the largest school in the country and earmarked as national heritage site.
8. Indian Muslim Sheik Adam Mosque
The mosque is a good pitstop to see a fine example of religion tolerance among Ipoh’s multi-racial population. Situated just a stone throw away from St Michael, the mosque is frequented by Indian moslems of “Hanafi” sect and if your timing is right, prayer session can be viewed from the mosque’s compound. The mosque was built by Sheikh Adam Mohd Ghaus, a wealthy trader who hailed from southern India and decided to call Ipoh home in 1900. The “Chitya Indian” or Moghul styled mosque was completed in 1908 and today it serves roughly 800 devotees for Friday prayers every week.
9. FMS Bar & Restaurant
Your stomach should be growling for lunch by now. Well, for a quick bite and some beers, FMS Bar and Restaurant has to be THE place. FMS stands for “Federated Malay States”, comprising of Malay states (Perak, Selangor, Pahang and Negeri Sembilan), once fall under the British rule. Founded in 1906 by a Chinese immigrant, FMS Bar is the oldest functioning bar and restaurant in Malaysia. First started to serve European miners, planters and merchants, today, FMS reels in history buffs with its large collection of colonial antiques. Don’t miss a photo shot with a large potrait of Queen Elizabeth in her teens. You’ll feel like you’re in a time warp.
FMS Bar and Restaurant – Malaysia’s oldest colonial style restaurant celebrated its 100 year birthday in 2006.
From FMS Bar, look out for HSBC Bank building; ask FMS waiters, they’ll be glad to show you the way. Walk along the one-way road as shown on the map and experience old town’s hustle and bustle, hands on. The hike from FMS to the next pitstop Jalan Bandar Timah takes about 30-40 mins.
Flanking the HSBC Bank building, this road, Jalan Sultan Yussuf, leads you to Jalan Bandar Timah
9. Jalan Bandar Timah
The road is a short 500m (1640 ft) road that’s slewed with cafes, eateries, traditional medicinal herbs retailers, dry food groceries, tinsmiths, tailors ….. just the kind of place local housewives would love to spend an hour or two to while away the afternoon – Malaysian version of “retail therapy”. This is also the birth place of the famous “Ipoh white coffee” and the best place to savour the brew is at “Kedai Kopi Sin Yuan Loong”, a cafe tucked at Lahat Lane’s junction.
Dried seafood and condiment shop front
Jalan Bandar Timah road view from Lahat Lane junction
Ipoh white coffee never fail to reel in caffeine junkies from villages and hamlets around Ipoh every weekend. Take a sip and you’ll know why. To learn what makes Ipoh white coffee so outstanding, read explaination from Ipoh famous coffee factory
Although it is a dying art, handmade home furnitures made from natural rattan can be bought in old town.
It’s perfectly alright to ditch the trail map and veer off occasionally to see what’s hidden in the backlanes.
11. Little India
Brimming with Indian retailers, this pocket of Indian neighbourhood will thrill you with the buzz of a trading hub that’s teeming with spice, herbs, textile, silverware, boutiques … and of course, good eats. It feels like you are in a potted version of India. The composite nature of Little India is no illusion – it’s all down history. In 18th-19th century, the old town was expanded to include Indian immigrants brought in by the British to build roads, railways and work in the plantations. Today, modern-day Little India offers a laid-back spread of sights, sounds and spellbinding variety of culinary delights.
Little India’s “banana-leaf rice”, a heady mix of curries and rice, is usually eaten with bare hands and washed down with a glass on milk tea. Fridays are usually dedicated to vegetarians and meat is rarely served in eateries.
Flower peddlers dotting the streets add colours to Little India
So, there you are. A solid jolt of history, sightseeing and good food all in one day. We recommend that you to start your day at 9am. On average walking pace, considering the tropical heat and factoring in some misadventures, you should be able to finish the trail by 4-5pm.
Do remember that Ipoh old town isn’t best after dark. This is when the business community and visitors head home and call it a day. Very few people actually live in old town. By 8pm, the town is pretty much dead. So, it’s a good idea to stay in the newer side of the town in order to continue one with some nightlife.
Any interesting sites around Ipoh for nature lovers?
Click Ipoh map post to view more photos of Ipoh’s surrounding ecology, natural landscape and geological features.
Last piece of advice
The above heritage trail is perfect for travellers en-routing Cameron Highlands, Taiping, Kuala Kangsar or Lumut jetty (Pangkor island) because the trail rears near Medan Kidd bus and taxi station (see above map). There are hourly buses to Kuala Kangsar, Taiping and Lumut while daytime buses ply Cameron Highland 4 times daily.
- Ambrose B. Rathborne, Camping and Tramping in Malaya, 1898.
Modern day Ipoh
Often touted as a town that “tin built”, its British colonial past has left Ipoh with a wide array of historical sites and buildings that speak volume of its heydays in 19th century when tin prices were at peak.
The town center can be easily covered in a day on foot. To give you an idea, one can walk from Fairpark Hotel to Sri Subramaniar Temple in 30-40mins. Google Map below is in true scale. Click on “view larger map” for more detailed map.
Tramping Ipoh in 1 day
Basically, Ipoh is divided into two by Kinta River, separating the old town (left) and new town (right). If you don’t have much time, we suggest you head straight to old town and soak up Ipoh’s best local scenes and bygone accolades.
View Larger Map
Insider Tip Map – Here, we have created a map – to our liking – that points travellers to the best spots in Ipoh. Click on blue balloons for details and soak up interesting places to visit around Ipoh
This map is for those who detest the mumble jumble of Google Map
Start and end the trail at either Bus Station or Railway Station. These places are well known by taxi drivers and easy to reach with town buses; makes it easy for you to find transport to get back to your hotel. And oh, you don’t need to worry about food and water because trail recommended is dotted by prolific eateries. However, an umbrella or raincoat will come in handy, just in case.
Here we go …..
1. Railway StationDesigned by British architect A. B. Hubback, the station was completed in 1917 and was a monument to Ipoh’s prosperity and wealth in its infancy years. After you’ve gawked at Railway Station’s fabulous Moorish Indian architecture design, cross over to the small park fronting it.
Pay attention to a fenced tree labelled “Pokok Ipoh / Upeh / Upas”.Ipoh tree (Antiaris toxicaria Lesch)
If you don’t have time to trek the jungle to see a wild Ipoh tree, this is your best bet. The tree was planted umpteen years ago and has not grown much due to un-natural surroundings. Wild Ipoh trees can grow up to 40m (160 feet) in a few short years.
2. Birch Memorial Clock TowerThe clock tower was unveiled by Sir John Anderson, British High Commissioner in 1909, and it was dedicated to J.W.W. Birch, the first Resident of Perak state.
The tower hosts a 6ft diameter 10 cwt mother bell chiming to the tune of the Big Ben of London (!). Perched on pedestral are 4 terracotta figures depicting the 4 “Virtues of British Administration” …
1. Figure carrying a sword and shield depicts “loyalty”.
2. Figure blinded and holding a sword and scale depicts “justice”.
3. Figure unarmed depicts “patience”.
4. And figure with calm demeanour holding a spear depicts “fortitude”.
On the side panels are images of 44 famous persons in world history.
3 and 4. City Hall and High Court
These buildings are fine examples of bygone 19th century buildings.
5. Ipoh Club
The club was a leftover from colonial heydays and today it serves high-society and lawyers looking for a comfy sojourn from nearby High Court grind. The club is perched on the corner of a very large field locals call “Ipoh Padang”. This is the typical hallmark of British legacy. If one has travelled ex-colonial towns like Penang, Taiping or Kuala Lumpur, one would notice the presence of similar set-up in these town centers. There’s always a club for shoulder rubbings and a large field for cricket, polo, rugby and other English outdoor games. There are 3 star rooms for rent if you wish to soak in its 112 years old demeanour. View Ipoh Club’s website.
Ipoh Club
Colonial shophouses bordering Ipoh Padang are known as “Street of Lawyers” in olden days.
6. Tun Razak Library
By now, we are pretty sure our tropical weather is taking toll on you and what better place to cool down than the air-conditioned library. The library has a large collection of local Malay and English books. Depending on your interest(s), the library has enough riveting books to keep you hooked the whole day … if you’re not careful.
7. St Micheal Institution
After a moment of reading solitude at Tun Razak, hop over to the most beautiful Catholic missionary school in Malaysia. Founded by the De La Salle Brothers Order in 1912, it is part of the La Sallian community of schools worldwide, a brotherhood established by St. John Baptist De La Salle. With 37 students, it started off as a small mansion surrounded by coconut palms 100 years ago. By 1917, the enrollment reached 300 students. During World War 2, the school became a British army transit hospital camp but soon St. Michael became the headquarters of the Japanese government of Perak and became known as “Perak Shu Seicho”. After the war, the school reopened and more classes and buildings were added. Today, the school houses more than 2000 students making among the largest school in the country and earmarked as national heritage site.
8. Indian Muslim Sheik Adam Mosque
The mosque is a good pitstop to see a fine example of religion tolerance among Ipoh’s multi-racial population. Situated just a stone throw away from St Michael, the mosque is frequented by Indian moslems of “Hanafi” sect and if your timing is right, prayer session can be viewed from the mosque’s compound. The mosque was built by Sheikh Adam Mohd Ghaus, a wealthy trader who hailed from southern India and decided to call Ipoh home in 1900. The “Chitya Indian” or Moghul styled mosque was completed in 1908 and today it serves roughly 800 devotees for Friday prayers every week.
9. FMS Bar & Restaurant
Your stomach should be growling for lunch by now. Well, for a quick bite and some beers, FMS Bar and Restaurant has to be THE place. FMS stands for “Federated Malay States”, comprising of Malay states (Perak, Selangor, Pahang and Negeri Sembilan), once fall under the British rule. Founded in 1906 by a Chinese immigrant, FMS Bar is the oldest functioning bar and restaurant in Malaysia. First started to serve European miners, planters and merchants, today, FMS reels in history buffs with its large collection of colonial antiques. Don’t miss a photo shot with a large potrait of Queen Elizabeth in her teens. You’ll feel like you’re in a time warp.
FMS Bar and Restaurant – Malaysia’s oldest colonial style restaurant celebrated its 100 year birthday in 2006.
From FMS Bar, look out for HSBC Bank building; ask FMS waiters, they’ll be glad to show you the way. Walk along the one-way road as shown on the map and experience old town’s hustle and bustle, hands on. The hike from FMS to the next pitstop Jalan Bandar Timah takes about 30-40 mins.
Flanking the HSBC Bank building, this road, Jalan Sultan Yussuf, leads you to Jalan Bandar Timah
9. Jalan Bandar Timah
The road is a short 500m (1640 ft) road that’s slewed with cafes, eateries, traditional medicinal herbs retailers, dry food groceries, tinsmiths, tailors ….. just the kind of place local housewives would love to spend an hour or two to while away the afternoon – Malaysian version of “retail therapy”. This is also the birth place of the famous “Ipoh white coffee” and the best place to savour the brew is at “Kedai Kopi Sin Yuan Loong”, a cafe tucked at Lahat Lane’s junction.
Dried seafood and condiment shop front
Jalan Bandar Timah road view from Lahat Lane junction
Ipoh white coffee never fail to reel in caffeine junkies from villages and hamlets around Ipoh every weekend. Take a sip and you’ll know why. To learn what makes Ipoh white coffee so outstanding, read explaination from Ipoh famous coffee factory
Although it is a dying art, handmade home furnitures made from natural rattan can be bought in old town.
It’s perfectly alright to ditch the trail map and veer off occasionally to see what’s hidden in the backlanes.
11. Little India
Brimming with Indian retailers, this pocket of Indian neighbourhood will thrill you with the buzz of a trading hub that’s teeming with spice, herbs, textile, silverware, boutiques … and of course, good eats. It feels like you are in a potted version of India. The composite nature of Little India is no illusion – it’s all down history. In 18th-19th century, the old town was expanded to include Indian immigrants brought in by the British to build roads, railways and work in the plantations. Today, modern-day Little India offers a laid-back spread of sights, sounds and spellbinding variety of culinary delights.
Little India’s “banana-leaf rice”, a heady mix of curries and rice, is usually eaten with bare hands and washed down with a glass on milk tea. Fridays are usually dedicated to vegetarians and meat is rarely served in eateries.
Flower peddlers dotting the streets add colours to Little India
So, there you are. A solid jolt of history, sightseeing and good food all in one day. We recommend that you to start your day at 9am. On average walking pace, considering the tropical heat and factoring in some misadventures, you should be able to finish the trail by 4-5pm.
Do remember that Ipoh old town isn’t best after dark. This is when the business community and visitors head home and call it a day. Very few people actually live in old town. By 8pm, the town is pretty much dead. So, it’s a good idea to stay in the newer side of the town in order to continue one with some nightlife.
Any interesting sites around Ipoh for nature lovers?
Click Ipoh map post to view more photos of Ipoh’s surrounding ecology, natural landscape and geological features.
Last piece of advice
The above heritage trail is perfect for travellers en-routing Cameron Highlands, Taiping, Kuala Kangsar or Lumut jetty (Pangkor island) because the trail rears near Medan Kidd bus and taxi station (see above map). There are hourly buses to Kuala Kangsar, Taiping and Lumut while daytime buses ply Cameron Highland 4 times daily.
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Special Notice Oct 2008 – We have finally mustered enough fund to self-host after hitching a ride from wordpress.com for 3 years. For the latest posts, articles and to keep in touch with us, please go to our new site www.outskirtoutreach.org. This “On The Far Side” blog’s contents and posts will diminish as we transfer them to the new one; which is a big big heap of work in the next few months. Thanks everyone for your kind support !
